current stage
visitor book
Whats new / Index

Stage 17 - Merry Beach to North Durras

Another glorious autumn day in paradise, but it was definitely time to move on. Our trip today would take us through the heart of the Murramarang National Park, first heading inland to climb Durras Mountain and pass through several different forest landscapes, and then descending back to follow the coastline past more beautiful beaches and around one of the nicest rock platforms that I have visited.

Leaving Merry Beach, we followed the track around Snapper Head as a sea-eagle soared overhead (a spectacle that we have almost come to expect), quickly reaching a viewing platform overlooking the magnificent forested coastline of the National Park and our route south. The sky was incredibly clear and from the end of Snapper Point, the coastline stretched far southward with the outline of Mount Dromedary, 80 km distant, visible on the horizon.


The coastline of Murramarang National Park

Farewell to the local mob

We passed through the camping ground at Pretty Beach and farewelled the mob of kangaroos out for their morning repas, before commencing the 280 m climb up to Durras Mountain. The dry sclerophyll forest dominated by spotted gums on the northern slope eventually gave way to a denser more luxurious vegetation as we approached the top. Here there were a few clearings from an abandoned farming venture; these gave glimpses over and through the tall trees of the deep blue of the Pacific Ocean to the east and the lighter shades of blue of the coastal mountain ranges to the west.

mmmmmmm


Looking back to the north from Durras Mountain

On top of Durras Mountain


One last look at the Budawangs


View southward toward Durras

Alert but not alarmed

Track through the spotted gum forest

Bark of the spotted gum


The track then descended steeply down the south-eastern slope of Durras Mountain through lusher forest, where rainforest patches mixed with spotted gums in the wetter gullies.


Pebbly "Not Pebbly Beach"

Levelling out near the coast, we could hear a distant sound like a thousand jaffas being rolled down the aisle of a theatre at the same time; we were approaching Pebbly Beach. Arriving at a small inlet we were mesmerised, as the surf surged in to the thick steep layers of pebbles on the beach and tumbled them around as it sucked back out again. The soft rising and falling pitch of water-rattled pebbles is a sound to soothe the troubled soul.

 


Sandy "Pebbly Beach"

However, our souls were light and free, so we headed on over a low headland to the Pebbley Beach campground. It is an interesting piece of trivia that the unnamed beaches on either side of Pebbly Beach are stoney, while the one actually named Pebbly Beach is sandy.

We stopped for lunch here and, no sooner had our sandwiches appeared, than a flock of currawongs appeared ready, willing and able to steal any bit of food that wasn't held or nailed down to the table. Even a couple of bowerbirds joined in. Because of its attractive setting and resident beach kangaroos, Pebbley Beach is a popular spot for mass tourism and, in season, busloads of tourists stop for a brief visit. The local bird life obviously gets too many free handouts from their lunchboxes.


Currawong about to get take a free lunch


Gimme your sandwich or I'll rip your eyes out!!


Old blue eyes reincarnated as a bowerbird

We moved on following the rock platform and crossing another stoney beach, with its soothing rumble tumble of rounded pebbles, in parts graded according to size by the surge and retreat of the surf. Soon we reached isolated and beautiful Depot Beach, less well known and a jewel in the coastline for that very reason. We sat in the shade of a tree at the northern end for some time watching the waves crashing onto the outer edges of a rock platform and a few surfers catching the breaks where the platform joined the beach proper.



Between Pebbly and Depot Beaches


Rock shelf at the north end of Depot Beach



Depot Beach and Durras Mountain


Rock platdorm beneath Point Upright

 

It would have been easy to doze off in this idyllic setting, but we needed to move on and crossed the beach to a long rock platform under the tall sandstone cliffs of Point Upright. The relatively high tide and big seas made for an interesting passage along the platform and both of us ended up with saturated shoes, caught out by the surge of an extra-large wave at the wrong time and place.


Point Upright

mmmmmmm

Leaving the platform to pass through a narrow section of banksia forest on the southern side of the headland, we emerged to look over the azure waters of the northern end of Beagle Bay to the long sweeping beach at North Durras. This bay is protected from the large ocean swells and, living up to its name, it was too tempting to stay out of the water. After a refreshing swim, we strolled up the beach to North Durras where we had booked in for the night.


View over Beagle Bay

One slight disappointment faced us at the end of a great day – the channel from the sea to Durras Lake – a great place to swim when the tide is rushing in or out - had closed over. At several points along the coast, we had noticed that there appeared to be a build up of sand and this confirmed it. Six months ago the sand finally won and closed off the entrance until the next cycle when a build-up in lake water levels should break through to the sea once again; such is the rhythm of life for many of these coastal lakes.

Although it was no longer possible to swim in the channel, the closed entrance did not detract from the aesthetic qualities of Durras. The view across the lake and dunes to the sea from the deck of our cabin at Joalah Holiday Park is one of those that you could sit and enjoy for hours on end.


Early morning on Durras Lake


North Durras beach houses

We spent the next two days at North Durras relaxing and catching up with washing, website updates etc. The village of North Durras is a time warp, where most buildings are still the old style beach houses of the '60s era. This is a pleasant change from many of the ultra-modern new developments. North Durras should be heritage listed!

One afternoon, desperation overtook us and we strolled 3 km down the beach to Murramarang Resort to have a glass of beer, taking the opportunity to have a quick swim in their large resort-style pool. Very relaxing, but probably not very correct as we were not resident guests; sorry Mr Murramarang, perhaps this small plug for your nice resort in its peaceful coastal setting will be adequate recompense.

The following morning, we learnt the basic skills of sea-kayaking with Phil from Bay and Beyond Sea Kayaks in Durras. Together with another pleasant couple, he took us on a trip on the pristine waters of Lake Durras and we learnt how the lake was saved from “progress” as the Friends of Durras took on and defeated the developers who wanted to line it shores with more houses and resorts. Now it is protected forever as part of Murramarang National Park – more power to the little person! Any one of us can make a difference.

Good company and good kayaking on the pristine waters of Durras Lake

     
current stage
visitor book
web design
by
gang-gang
Back to top