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Stage 26 - Wallaga Lake to Bermagui

Just before Wallaga Lake we passed the 400 km mark on our walk. Quite a few people that we have met on this trip have asked whether we walk along the roads. Those following this website will have noticed that we try to keep away from main roads and as close to the coast as possible. Time for a bit more trivia for statistics addicts like myself; the following is a breakdown of how far we have walked on different surfaces: -

Walking tracks MMMMMMMM.M 134 km
Beaches / rock platforms MMM.113 km
Suburbia (streets etc) MMMMM. 70 km
Dirt roads / forestry tracks MMM30 km
Bicycle paths MMMMMMMMMMM 30 km
Paddocks MMMMMMMMM.MMMM 14 km
Bitumen roads MMMMMMMMMMM 9 km
Highways MMMMMMMMMMMMMM 2 km
Bush bashing M.M..MMMMMM....M 1 km


When you consider that bike paths are in or near developed areas, it's scary how much of the coast is taken up by urbanisation, i.e. cities, towns and coastal villages. Fortunately, National Parks and Nature Reserves are now protecting much of the undeveloped coast from further expansion. These comments are not an inditement of local government in the area, as most councils are protective of their urban green space and have programs to make residents aware of environmental issues, e.g. painting signs on drains warning that the water eventually flows into lakes or oceans or even declaring areas “plastic bag free zones”. Local residents also have self-organised into groups such as Dunecare and Bushcare to try and remedy existing environmental problems and prevent any further degradation. However, we cannot all have uninterrupted ocean views and future development needs to be consolidated in already urbanised areas.


Keep left! Storm-damaged road
turned walking track

Enough pontificating – let's get back to the walk. At 8km, Wallaga Lake to Bermagui was one of the shorter stages of our walk. We retraced our steps from our cabin on the lake across to Camel Rock, to rejoin the Bermagui coastal walking track. This led us through a narrow strip of coastal forest between the beach and the main road, before emerging onto a disused stretch of bitumen road that had been washed out by severe seas. The motorist's misfortune became the walker's fortune, as for a few kilometres we had a smooth sealed track, with pigface and acacias creeping across and the occasional stretch of line markings still in place to prevent head-on collisions between opposing walkers.

mmmmmmmmmmmmmm

This stretch took us past Long Swamp, a freshwater lagoon trapped behind the dunes and a haven for waterbirds. A couple of discretely placed hides had been built along the way to facilitate observing the birds in the wetland.

mmmmmmmm


Long Swamp

Eventually the track ended and the real road took over, so we headed to Hayward's Beach where Bermagui lay stretched out on its headland behind the entrance of the Bermagui River.


Hayward's Beach and Bermagui


The colours of sandstone

"Cungie" covered rocks - that is sea-squirts for
the profane and tunicates for the profound



As we climbed up over Keating's Headland, a sea-eagle circled us and twice its shadow passed over us. Remembering our lessons at Gulaga about how people do not choose their totem, but that their totem chooses them, we decided that the sea-eagle had become our totem animal. Given my fascination for this superb aerialist, I was flattered.


We crossed another small wetland to reach the bridge over the Bermagui River, before following the road up the main street to our accommodation for the night at Zane Grey Caravan Park. Bermagui is one of the best known game-fishing ports in Australia and the author, Zane Grey, was a regular visitor during the 1930s to fish for the big marlin and tuna that can be found near here. It still has a lot of old town charm; the modern game boats in the harbour contrasting with the older building facades and date palms in the main street, the iconic rows of Norfolk Island Pines, and attractions such as the Blue Pool, a rock pool built into the rock platform at Blue Point over 60 years ago. We enjoyed our early morning swim in this pool and our brief stay in Bermagui.


The main street of Bermagui


Looking across the bay back toward Gulaga

The Blue Pool - great place for an early morning dip


Norfolk Island pines lining Horseshoe Bay


The route southward from Blue Point

     
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