Our accommodation in Yoho was the Whiskey Jack Wilderness Hostel, ideally situated in the Yoho River Valley within view (and earshot) of the 255m Takkakaw Falls. We arrived late afternoon, unloaded and then wandered across the valley to check out the falls at close range, as the glacier meltwater tumbled down from a gap in the orange-splashed cliffs, in a series of massive leaps.

Whiskey Jacks is a comfortable place. Running on propane gas, it offers heating, hot showers and a place to cook and keep your beers cold. Sitting on the deck in the evening after a filling meal, sipping a red wine and looking out at the long ribbon of the Takkakaw Falls was a great way to start our time in a new National Park. It got even better when Sasha, our congenial hostel manager, decided to light up a camp fire – time I finished writing and went out to join the fair Nello around it. The attraction to fire is a very primal urge.

Looking up from these scribblings on the deck of Whiskey Jacks on a crisp but pleasant evening, the Takkakaw Falls are thundering more loudly from across the valley.  Today was quite a bit warmer than yesterday and, with the increased melt up on the Daley Glacier, the volume of water making the 255 m drop from cliff top to valley bottom has increased.

Today we walked the Iceline Trail, one of the signature hikes of Yoho. We walked it with Col, a fellow traveller from down under, who we met at the hostel and who takes as many photos as I do. The ice was still coating the car windscreens, when we set out at 8.30am, still in the shade of the Waputik Mountains across the valley. This didn't really matter, as the first part of our hike was a big climb, up through the forest to the open slopes of the President Range above.

It was actually much easier climbing than we had anticipated, as we followed a series of switchbacks steadily up through the spruce and fir. Across the valley, the Takkakaw Falls were a thin silver ribbon against the dark shaded cliffs. As we gained elevation, the forest thinned and the sun rose above the valley to bathe the landscape in a warm light – it was tee-shirt walking time.

Within the hour we broke out of the forest on to the rocky upper slopes for our first glimpse of what the Iceline Trail has to offer - we liked it. Across the valley, the Daley Glacier, the source of the falls, flowed down from the Waputik Icefield, while mountain and glacier stretched away toward the north.

As we followed the ice line, our perspective of these glaciers changed continuously. As we traversed the orange and tan rocks of this wonderfully desolate landscape, the views of the mountains across the valley, behind and ahead, changed as part of a magnificent rolling panorama.

We were now looking directly up The Little Yoho Valley, framed by the twisted strata of tan-rock mountains. Despite the beauty of these barren glacial landscapes it was good to see the green of alpine meadow and forest tree again.

The descent became steeper as we entered the forest, passing an orphaned moraine and eventually emerging onto a flat meadow through which flowed the Little Yoho Creek. On the other side was the picturesque log-built Stanley Mitchell Hut, the perfect place for lunch.

We crossed the grey-green waters of the creek on a wooden bridge and settled down in the sunshine to relax and enjoy the views of the peaceful meadow and impressive glacier-fronted peaks of the Vice-President and The (previously hidden) President. A ground-squirrel popped out of its burrow from time to time to check us out.

It was a place you could stay for a long time, but we still had a long way to go. Pushing on, we started the descent of the Little Yoho Valley, following the track alongside the rushing creek through lovely open forest and meadow. High above, The Vice President loomed icily white, backlit by the sun.

The forest of fir and spruce became thicker and taller as we lost elevation, its floor a soft dimpled mat of moss and assorted fungi. We soon found ourselves high above a narrow ravine, down which the Little Yoho raced to meet the Big Yoho River. As we neared the main valley, it was now our turn to drop steeply down a set of short switch backs which brought us to the Yoho Valley floor and the impressive powerful Laughing Falls. Here the Little Yoho made its final plunge before joining its bigger brother. We stopped for a break here with the ground squirrels and chipmunks.

From here, there was a 5km walk down the Yoho Valley, starting off near the river and an impressive set of cascades as it cut its way through a narrow rock constriction, then heading back into the forest before finally regaining the edge of the milky green fast-flowing Yoho River.

The last few kilometres were on  wide manicured path that seemed not to end, as often happens at the last stage of a good walk when there are no highlights left. Not quite true, we had one more – the thundering sound of falling water signalled our arrival back at Takkakaw Falls, even more impressive than yesterday.

A short distance later and we were back on the deck of Whiskey Jacks, cold beer in hand, reminiscing on the incredible and very different scenery we had passed through. For us, the stay at this wilderness lodge, full of character and good company, was integral to our superb Iceline experience.

The campsite itself was tucked away in the forest, so we followed the access track down through the mossy understorey beneath fir and spruce. We took the route along the eastern side of Cataract Brook, passing a small shallow green lake that reflected the mountain tops above the forest canopy – our appetites were being whetted already.

Shortly after, we emerged at the shallow green-tinted northern end of Lake O'Hara and had our first view. It was indeed impressive. The waters were mirror still, reflecting the jagged outline of the Schaeffer Ridge and the Opabin Plateau below it, fringed golden with the autumn colours of larch.

We wandered slowly around the lake shore, looking for a place to enjoy our lunch – a hard choice as all along was spectacular. We finally settled for a spot, where we could see a cliff-face rising directly out of the lake, backed by the enormous bulk of Yukness Mountain.

Emerging at this  level, we were again blown away by the view that greeted us – as we stepped out above the foaming white of the falls, there was Victoria Lake, fringed with golden larch and backed by the dark backlit walls of Yukness Mountain. This image was reflected perfectly in its still waters.

The track now headed up to the next tier and here lay Lefroy Lake, clear blue and reflecting the magnificent cirque of glacier-capped Mt Lefroy, Glacier Peak and Ringrose Peak. At the rear of the lake, a small rock-face formed the next tier. We climbed up the track to it and there was Oesa Lake, directly beneath the 1000m walls of this superb alpine cirque. It was definitely a place to stop and take in the majesty of these mountains.

Our meditation was distracted by some movement on the scree slope at the base of Yukness Mountain to our right – a small white spot was crossing its face. It was a mountain goat. I hurriedly put on my pack and dropped down on to the scree, following the path across as quietly as I could. When I crossed a small rise, there it was - not 50m away grazing impassively on a patch of alpine herbs. Mountain goats are magnificent creatures.

We continued our high ledge route around the face of Yukness Mountain, now looking down on the pale green Moor Lakes, fringed by sunlit larches. Ahead, the pointed silhouette of Mount Biddle began to dominate our view as we walked deeper into the valley.

We hurried on, climbing a grassy slope to the bowl of Opabin Lake at the head of the valley – yet another beautiful glacial lake backed by rugged peaks and the remnants of the mighty glaciers that once carved these valleys. It was time for another stop to meditate on the power of mountains and watch the pikas scurrying about their rocky habitat.

Time was moving on and the shadows of the Schaeffer Ridge were lengthening across the plateau. We headed off, stopping at the top of a rock-face to admire the sun reflecting on the larches at the far end of the plateau. Then, descending, we wound our away around the rocky outcrops and lakes and through the luminous larch forest of Opabin.

More beautiful reflections in Hungabee Lake and Cascade Lakes followed, before we crossed the tumbling mountain stream and headed out towards the Opabin Prospect at the cliff-tops that marked the end of the plateau.

The view from the Opabin Prospect is considered one of the finest of the area and it was magnificent - out over the forest encircling the green of Mary Lake and blue of Lake O'Hara to the cliffs and peaks that framed this scene.

The shadows had caught us now, so we hurried on, dropping off the plateau to follow first a small rocky ravine, then a steep goat-track beneath the Opabin cliffs that brought us out into the fir forest surrounding Mary Lake. It was but a quick walk around the lake shore and across to Lake O'Hara, where we followed the Lakeshore Trail back past the Lodge and to Le Relais (the day shelter). Here we bought a “near-beer” to celebrate our walk and watch the evening shadows settle over magnificent Lake O'Hara.

With the shadows came the mountain cold, so we quickly followed the track along the eastern side of Cataract Brook back to the campsite, where we were soon well-fed and snuggled in to our sleeping bags. I mentioned that Lake O'Hara is arguably the most scenic part of the Canadian Rockies. For us there is no argument – this small area is the jewel in the crown of these magnificent mountains.

We had original planned another short walk before heading off tomorrow for other parts of Canada, but we decided not to do it. Today's walk had been as close to perfect as you could get, with so much packed into a relatively short distance, and there was no better way to end our Rocky Mountain experience.

Then we drove off, had one last mountain lunch on the shores of beautiful Lake Emerald, another must-see on the Rockies tourist trail, and headed for Vancouver. Our time in the west was over and we had a plane to catch for Montreal.