Crossing the sealed main road, the path changed to a bed of orange-brown scoria which showed the volcanic origins of this landscape. It led us to the village of La Roche, its dark brown stone houses beautifully situated above the Dolaison River. Skirting the village, we followed a rough footpath along the high rim of the river valley, silent but for the softly continuous call of a cuckoo.

Stone cross marking the medieval pilgrimage route

From Montbonnet, we took a small dirt road westward and the sun finally emerged to stay a while, as we wandered past the lush green fields, accompanied by the twittering of hedge-birds. Ahead the hills were covered in a patchwork of pale green deciduous trees, just coming into leaf, and dark green conifers. With the sun on our backs, we climbed steadily up into the spruce forest of La Baraque, content to be passing through a very different landscape and reaching, at 1230m, our high point for the day.

The descent started soon after we passed the little Lac d'Oeuf. We found ourselves leaving the forest behind and passing once again through the lush rural landscapes of central France, Ahead the red roofs and dark-stone walls of the houses announced our arrival in Le Chier, a curiously, but aptly, named village (look it up on babelfish), where the rich rural aromas of dairying enterprises were particularly strong.

From Rochegude, we picked up a winding rocky track that descended quickly along a spruce-lined spur to the flats of Pratclaux below. We followed the GR65 on its course along sealed road, dirt track and stony footpath, as it crossed the flats, its bright green wheatfields criss-crossed by high voltage lines, before picking up the main road to zig-zag down to the village of Monistrol d'Allier.

The village had a superb setting with its old stone houses lined along the bank of the Allier beneath volcanic cliffs on the far side of the river. Crossing the river on a high metal bridge, we were welcomed by an old black labrador, it was time for a hot chocolate and some biscuits in the morning sunshine - an energy kick needed for the big climb ahead.

The Allier River at Monistrol

Leaving Monistrol, we picked up the Montée de Madeline, a sealed road that took us up steeply beneath the basalt cliffs to the little Chapel de la Madeline, built into a small cave in the overhanging rockface.

17th century Chapelle de la Madeline in its cliff side niche

A set of even steeper steps brought us to the hamlet of Escluzels on the rim of the gorge. Our climb did not stop here though, as we pushed up through farmlands to find a wide dirt track that zig-zagged its way up through the fresh new leaves of a deciduous forest returning to life.

The incredible greenness of the French countryside

Finally, grassy fields began to appear again as we reached the hamlet of Montaure on the edge of the Plateau de Gevaudan. Wandering across the wheat fields, cattle and sheep pastures of this gently undulating plateau, we recalled the story of the Beast of Gevaudan, which terrorised this region in the mid 1700s, devouring 22 women and children - hard to believe in such a tranquil setting.

Passing quickly by the rural fragrances of Rozier, we stopped at Chez Néné in the next village of Le Vernet for a long lunch break, with local cheese and charcuterie. We were now nearing our goal and a gentle climb along a dirt road, took us up to Rognac, at 1130m the high point of the day. Soon after, the GR65 became a steep stony track that led quickly down to the town of Sauges, its red rooftops glowing in the afternoon sun.

Over a breakfast of home-made bread and jam with a steaming bowl of café au lait, the friendly Mme Martins had told us that our first two days were the hardest on the whole French section of the Chemin St Jacques. Consequently, we were feeling relatively pleased with ourselves as we set out to cross The Margeride region on this, the longest section of our walk.

The morning fog was already starting to lift as we headed out of Saugues and, by the time we had completed the steady climb up to Le Pinet, the sun had definitively broken through. Once more the landscape was dominated by rich green fields, speckled gold with dandelions, and country roads lined with violets and many other wildflowers.

Track through the spruce grove

As we reached La Clauze, we stopped for a brief rest to inspect a 12th century tower perched alone on a large granite block, where once a castle stood. From here the path undulated for several kilometres through a now familiar broad, green French rural landscape of lush lowland pastures and low, forest-topped hills, dotted with a scattering of villages and hamlets - we were in danger of becoming immune to its postcard perfection.

More classic French countryside

Starting again was a hard decision, but we pushed on through a tall and shady pine plantation to enter the fields of Le Sauvage, an isolated farm with large stone buildings and overnight stop for pilgrims. It was a good place to top up our water supplies, before pushing on beneath the pine forests that formed part of a winter cross-country skiing area.

Emerging from here onto a main road, we passed the fountain and chapel of Saint Roch, two more sources of sustainance for the medieval pilgrims who passed by here centuries ago. We also left the Department of Haute-Loire and entered that of Lozere. The kilometres were accumulating and the soles of our feet were taking a pounding on the flat, hard surfaces of the route.

From the chapel, the track descended briefly on a rocky path and then a narrow dirt road, before finally we reached the turn-off to the Les Faux, only 900m off the GR65. It was a very long 900m that brought us to peaceful little village of Les Faux and the Oustal Parent, 27 km from Saugues and our home for the night.

The terrain had not been difficult, but the long distance had taken its toll and for me it had been the hardest day so far, contrary to our expectations of the morning. It had also been a day of criss-crossing with fellow walkers - French, German, Australian, Quebecqois - gradually passing a bit more than the time of day and getting to know each other better.