So here we are, sitting along the edge of the picturesque harbour at St Ives, enjoying a glass of Cornish ale as we watch the tide slowly role in to refloat the fishing boats from their sandy moorings as big Atlantic gulls wheel about the sky. It has been a long journey to get here, 24 hours by plane to land at London's Heathrow airport and then two train trips to this far south west corner of England.

Tide's out at St Ives Harbour

We did break the train journey at Bath - a good place to re-sync jetlagged bodies and take in the sights and history of this town on the Avon river, with its ancient Roman baths and streets lined with classic Georgian architecture.

And so, here we are, ready to start the section of the South West Coast Path from St Ives to Penzance. This path, originally created by the coastguard to check for smugglers, is one of the great coastal walks of the world, stretching 1014 km around England's South-West Peninsula. We will walk only a small part of this iconic coastal walk, at its tip in Cornwall, but arguably one that has some of the most spectacular scenery. Over the next few days we shall find out.

What a perfect day to start out on the South West Coast Path - a cloudless sky and a crisp 14 C. We were going to be a bit time-constrained, however, as there is no accommodation at the hamlet of Zennor, where the day's walk ends, and we will need to catch the 12.52 pm bus back to St Ives (there are only two trips per day).

Setting out at 8.45am, after an enormous English breakfast, we wandered down the narrow cobbled street, between two walls of white-rendered residences, to reach the harbour. This morning the tide was well in and the fishing fleet floated contentedly on its calm, clear waters.

Passing through some more narrow streets, we crossed Island Head to reach Porthmeor Beach, a broad stretch of golden sand. Midway, we climbed back up onto a footpath that led us out of town and to the formal start of this section of the South West Coast Path. For a while, it was a smooth paved surface as it led us past some old WWII pill-boxes on Man Head and on to the seaward-facing slopes.

Around us lay a rich tapestry of different shades of green, splashed with the hues of wildflowers - blue, white, mauve, pink, yellow. Spring is clearly a good time to walk this coastline. Down to our right, the blue Atlantic Ocean formed lines of white foam as it butted against the dark basalt rocks of the lower cliffs. Curiously, the protruding rocks of the upper sloes were mainly limestone. The geology here is as interesting as the flora.

The fair Nello spotted a pheasant lurking behind a rock as we passed by. Indeed the slopes were becoming rockier, as the path undulated and meandered its way along this indented coast-line. It became a rolling panorama of headlands and coves with exotic names - Pollgassick Cove, Seven Years Cove, Bowling Cove, Brea Cove, River Cove, Economy Cove and Porthzennor Cove.

Several of the coves were fed by babbling streams, which meant steepish descents and ascents on rocky paths to cross them. At River Cove, the eagle-eyed Nello (now armed with her powerful new IOLs) spotted a trio of seals lazing in the water next to the cliffs.

Climbing up from the stream, we crossed a more open pasture land, which offered a glimpse of the hinterland and a flatter track. This soon disappeared after crossing the next stream, as we found ourselves winding around the headland, closer to the cliffs and picking our way through outcrops of rock. It was hard on the feet, but the reward was the magnificent cliff-side scenery.

Reaching a low-point on the walk, just above a small bouldery beach, we again climbed steadily up the cliff-side slopes, this time taking the left had fork at a junction. We had reach the turn-off to Zennor and the track took us steadily up to a high point, with views down to Pendour Cove and inland to the houses of Zennor and the rolling Cornish countryside.

Rugged Cornish coastline

From this point, all that was left was to follow a narrow hedge-lined country road into Zennor and on the the main road and the bus stop. Our walk had been finely judged, as 5 minutes later the bus pulled up and we were on our way back to St Ives and our "room with a sea view". This wild and rugged coastline had been a great introduction to the South West Coast Path - I can see why it is high on every walker's want list.

Our sea-view is actually over Porthminster Beach, where all day they have been setting up food stalls, an entertainment stage and tents for some kind of festivities. Its time to stop writing and go down to check it out - a pint of fine ale on a sandy beach as the sun goes down over the blue Atlantic seems a good way to finish our first day of walking.

Another day of clear blue sky had dawned - perfect for continuing our westward journey on the South West Coast Path. We caught the 9.40am bus along with othergroups of walkers and 20 minutes later got off at Zennor to recommence our walk where we had finished yesterday.

Retracing our path for a kilometre to rejoin the South West Coast Path and continue our westward journey, we quickly descended a series of stone steps to cross a densely overgrown stream above Porthglaze Cove.

View over Porthglaze Cove

As always, this led to a climb back up to the tops, where the views were becoming more expansive. Inland lay the heights of Carn Galver and Watch Croft, at 250m the highest point in this part of Cornwall. Ahead, the narrow promontory of Gurnards Head jutted out to sea.

We undulated and wound our way around to it, first dropping low past Treen Cove and then climbing back up to cross the neck of Gurnards Head. The next rock-topped headland provide a good spot for a break and a chance to take in the superb view between here and the distant lighthouse on Pendeen Watch.

The track at first was easy, as we followed flower-capped stone fences and crossed fields past contented Cornish cows, but gradually became more and more rocky. Picking our way up what seemed a gentle slope, we were suddenly confronted with the a sheer drop over Commando Cliffs. It was a good spot for lunch and to watch a couple of rock-climbers appear over the edge aftr climbing the wall.

In the distance, we noticed the ruined chimney of an tin-mining venture and, descending from Commando cliffs, we passed closer by some more ruins. This became the start of a much slower section, as the path picked its way through boulders or over muddy pools. In places, the track had become a narrow rivulet - sometimes, rocky, sometines muddy, sometimes both.

We worked our way through this area to descend sharply to Portheras Cove, with its beautiful, if small, patch of sandy beach. From the cove, a steady climb brought us up to Pendeen Watch and its white-walled lighthouse - a pretty sight.

The view to the south was less pretty, as we were now entering the main are of tin-mining. The tall chimneys of ruined engine houses, dominated the horizon, while inland the superstructure of Geevon Mine, the last to close in 1990, completed a quasi-industrial landscape.

The track led us to the outskirts of St Just, our accommodation for the night, and were starting to feel that end of walk lethargy when the highlights have run out and it has become a trudge home. However, that dissipated when we checked into our very pleasant B&B at The Old Post House in St Just.

The walk had been a longer and harder than we expected, but again the magnificent coastal scenery compensated for any extra effort. In fact, with its more open vistas, I preferred the section after Zennor th the one before - and that is high praise.

The days of clear blue sky were over. We awoke to a misty view of the world from our room, but, by the time we set out, it had cleared to leave a cover of high light cloud. With almost no wind, the weather was still ideal for walking. After another hearty English breakfast, we headed off, quickly passing through the back streets of St Just and out into the countryside tp pick up a footpath that led down into a coastal gully to rejoin the South West Coast Path at Porth Nanven.

Soon, we had our first big climb of the day to regain the cliff tops and wander through a open landscape of grassy pastures and stone fences. The expansive views here extended into the moorlands beyond as well as the now almost expected coastal panoramas. We could see from Lands End ahead to Cape Cornwall behind.

A slow descent through grassy fields into the valley to cross yet another crystal clear stream, cascading its way into the sea, was followed by a steeper ascent on the Nanjulian Cliffs. A couple of rock scrambles brought us over into the next landscape (this was the only real rock scrambling of the day - a great relief after the first two days).

We could now see the village of Sennen and headed along the path towards it, taking a low path closer to the water. Ahead lay two sandy beaches - we rounded the back of Gwynver Beach on its dunes, before crossing a section of low erodind cliffs to reach the larger Sennen Beach. It was pleasant to walk along its fine sand for a short period. Lots of surfers were out trying to catch the small Atlantic waves rolling in. Sennen is apparently a surfing hotspot, whch was good for us because the surf shop also sold hot coffee and muffins. It was time for a break.

From Sennen, we climbed steadily up the Mayon Cliffs and on to Lands End, joining the many other day-walkers out on their Sunday strolls. Lands End is a tourist hotspot and it was the first time on the path that we felt a bit crowded. We celebrated reaching this iconic point by having a Cornish clotted cream icecream at the "First and Last House in England".

From here, we continued through this moorland landscape, passing the superb columnar cliffs at Porth Lee, before descending to tiny hamlet of Porthgwarra with its narrow cove, tiny beach and coffee kiosk - time for another break.

It was pleasant sipping our coffees, but the time to push on had come. From Porthgwarra, the path led us steeply up to the Rospletha cliff tops and along to Minack. At the edge of its famous amphitheatre, we had a superb view of Porthcurno Beach, a wedge of golden sand in the cliff line. We took some steep steps down the cliffside to walk past it.

The last stage of our day's walk was on us - after a climb up through the dense vegetation to the top of the cliffs, we left the main path to detour along a hedge-lined public path, which quickly opened out as it crossed green pastured paddocks and follow a dirt road into Treen. Our B&B accommodation for the night lay just the other side of the village, but unfortunately (or perhaps fortunately) the famed Logan Arms pub lay between. After a 20 km ike, the call of a pint of Cornish ale could not be resiste. It also gave a chance to check out the menu for dinner later on.

This had been the longest day's walk, but with smoother paths, was easier than the previous two. The coastal scenery was not as dramatic (or perhaps we were becoming a bit blasé), but it still was a great day of walking on the South West Coast Path.

Following the Penberth River

After a bit of overnight rain, we were once again greeted by a day of sunshine, but one seasoned with an icy northerly wind. We set out from Treen, to quickly wander down a quiet country road to Penberth Cove. The road followed the Penberth Valley and it was nice to walking beneath a canopy of trees and alongside a babbling brook.

As we climbed up from the cove, it became apparent that the landscape was changing to a more gentler one. Gone the sheer cliffs and windswept moorlands from near Lands End - here, the cliffs sloped more gently to the sea, slopes covered in thick grass and dense shrubbery. The path, at times overgrown and dripping with morning dew, wound its way through the tall coastal shrubbery.

Views became restricted, with the occasional opening towards the coast or the green pasture lands on the tops. For the most part, the path stayed high, descending to cross several smaller coves, including one with a lovely waterfall. At St Loy Cove, we found ourselves again walking beneath a pleasant grove of trees and then on to an interesting bouldery beach - something new for the walk.

The section between here and Lamorra, the next cove along, slowly changed from boggy at the beginning, with water flowing down the path in places, to rocky at the end, where some good rock-hopping was needed to pick our way into the cove, where a coffee shop awaited.

Boggy track at Kemyel Crease

Leaving Lamorna, we worked our way around the cliffs at mid-level, before dropping on to a grassy flat and heading north (to complete all directions of the compass). The easy flat did not last for a long, and a final hard section across boggy Kemyel Crease, a small reserve of coastal forest, and over the last section of cliffs brought us to the village of Mouse Hole.

Mouse Hole has a picturesque little south-facing harbour - a great spot to sit on the sand, backs against the harbour wall and eat our lunch, protected from the wind and soaking up the Cornish sun.

We needed that warmth, as the last part of today's walk headed into the icy north wind, following the coastal cycle/walk way along the now flattened shoreline, past Newlyn with its much bigger harbour, large fishing fleet and heady marine aromas. From Newlyn, the concrete pathway took us in to Penzance and to our guesthouse for the next two nights. We had done the hard yards of this walk, and some were very hard, and could now relaxa a bit.

Now lets have an explore of Penzance and see where all those pirates are.

St Michaels Mount is a tall rocky outcrop a few hundred metres off the Cornwall coast. Topped by a large castle that started out life as a Benedictine priory in the 11th century, it seemed an ideal spot to finish our walk along the South West Coast Path. This did, however, require an early start, as it is connected to the mainland by a stone causeway that is only passable at low tide.

We set out at 7.30am to wander through the narrow laneways of suburban Penzance and down its main shopping street to reach Penzance Bay on its eastern side. From here we could see St Michaels Mount in the distance and set off on a steady stroll towards it, at first along the concrete cycle/walk way that lined the shore and then down on to the grey flat sand of the bay. With the tide going out on this flat beach, there was a lot of sand to walk on.

Arriving at the village of Marazion, we wandered across the causeway and stepped on to the island. Oops! £15 each to go further - we paid our fee and climbed up to visit the castle. On reaching the top terrace, with its glorious views over the bay and back towards Penzance, we declared the walk over.

After a coffee on the island, we caught the bus back from Marazion to Penzance for an afternoon of more mundane things, such as doing the laundry and purchasing a few necessary medical supplies. For the past few days, both the fair Nello and I have had bad head colds - courtesy of a passenger next to us on the flight over who coughed non-stop from Doha. Such is the risk of international travel.