Our departure time was 4pm, which gaves us a free day to sit and read on the edge of Cable Beach, wander through the old centre of Broome and check out one last time the red cliffs and white sand of Reddell Beach, before being picked up with our fellow passengers and driven to the southern end of Cable Beach.

As we alighted, a pair of fast dinghies pulled up on shore to ferry us quickly out to the waiting Diversity III. We were on board, time for a welcome champagne or two, the meet and greet session (our crew - Kane, Danny, Kim, Gronk and Oscar - and our fellow voyagers - Rob and Marg, Claudia and Wayne, Bruce and Michelle, Paul and Kathy, and Brian and Kellee), a golden West Coast sunset, a superb dinner of slow-braised beef cheeks followed by crème brulée (signs of feasts to come) and a sleep to the thrum of the engines as we cruised north up the coast of the Dampier Peninsula overnight.

Day 2 dawned and we woke to look out the window of our cabin to see the first of many islands of the Buccaneer Archipelago. We had rounded Cape Leveque just before dawn and were entering an area where the mainland appeared to disintegrate into a series of arid, rocky islands and islets, rising steeply out of the water with black waterline rings marking the difference between high and low tides. It was low tide time and these rings were good indicators of the big 12m tidal ranges in this coastline.

Passing through the Buccaneer Archipelago

Nearing the deeply indented coastline of Yampi Sound opposite Cockatoo Island, we dropped anchor and climbed aboard the dinghies for our first exploratory trip - a visit to Croc Creek for a swim in a freshwater pool, fed by a small waterfall from the heights above. Croc Creek was named for the shape of the ridgeline protruding out into the ocean rather than for the presence of dangerous reptilian predators ... that and the fact we need to climb a ladder up from the mooring to reach the plunge pool allowed us to swim and enjoy the waterhole with confidence. It was a pleasant start to our daily activities.

Leaving Croc Creek, we sailed out to pass through the channel between Kulan Island and the mainland. Not all the Kimberley is pristine and Kulan is the site of a large iron ore mining operation. The mine formed a big scar in the side of the island as we cruised by it and the large bulk carrier destined to ship ore to the smelters of China.

From here, we headed into large island-studded Talbot Bay, where long rocky ridge lines, separated by ocean channels created a weirdly indented coastline. Couple this landscape with 12 m tides and you have the home of the famous Horizontal Falls, where tidal flows pass through a couple of very narrow gaps in a foaming torrent of water, eddies, whirlpools and upsurges. They were our next port of call.

Anchoring off the impressively conical form of Slug Island, we once again took to the dinghies to run the wide falls a couple of times. Because it was a neap tide, they were perhaps not as ferocious as some photos portray, but you could still get good feel for the power of the tide. Since a boating accident a year ago, running the narrow falls is no longer allowed, so we just pulled up at the entrance for a good look - an impressive sight.

Classic Horizontal Falls portrait

Coming back through the wide falls, our little flotilla then turned east to cruise up into Cyclone Creek - named for the fact that its steep walls made it a safe anchorage for boats in a cyclone. The walls were not only steep, but an amazing example of the geological folding and faulting of this coastline.

Back on board, we pulled anchor to continue our northward journey, slowly drifting away from the mainland to anchor between two of the Kingfisher Islands. Yet another evening of golden sunsets, fine dining and good company in the pleasantly warm night air on the open top deck of Diversity III awaited. The pattern for our voyage was taking shape.

After a quiet night anchored in the calm waters of the cove of Kingfisher Island, we woke early to watch the sun rise over these flat off-shore islands. Today promised more adventures on the Kimberley Coast - the first of which was a visit to Montgomery Reef - 354 km2 of coral reef and rock that appears to rise out of the Indian Ocean every fall of the tide, water streaming off the reef edges into the sea below.

Early morning light at Kingfisher Island

Montgomery Reef and islets

Diversity III weighed anchor and cruised across the open water from Kingfisher Island to arrive around mid-tide and anchor near a long section of reef edge. At high tide the reef would disappear under water, so time was precious.

It was quickly onto the dinghies to zip across to the reef itself for a short exploration, first along the edge and then deep into a long channel that flowed out from the reef interior. People are no longer permitted to walk on the reef, which is part of a marine reserve, so a boat perspective was the only option .... not a bad one though, as this reef was home to more sea-turtles than I've seen before, as well as the odd sharks, rays and fish. Being a neap tide, the reef sat low in the water, enabling us to look out over its flat surface, where herons and other seabirds wandered.

Before heading back to the boat, we zipped across to a tiny sand islet, one becoming tinier by the minute as the tidal movement changed. It was time for a quick swim in the Indian Ocean before moving on and before the islet disappeared totally beneath the rising tide.

Back on board, our boat changed direction to head eastwards across the open sea towards Doubtful Bay. Passing the magnificent 150m vertical rock wall of Raft Point, we headed across the bay towards a conical basalt plug rising out of the mangrove flats. We had reached Red Cone Creek, our next destination, and dropped anchor a little way into its mouth.

It was time for another freshwater swim, either at Sapphire Pool or Ruby Falls. It was all aboard the dinghies for Sapphire Pool, zipping up the ever-narrowing mangrove channels with one eye out for crocodiles. Unfortunately, the tide was just a bit too low for the dinghies to reach the falls, so we retreated and then zoomed up the other arm of the creek as it meandered inland.

Suddenly, the mangrove flats gave way to a beautiful red sandstone gorge - we had arrived at Ruby Falls with its upper and lower pools. Having passed a croc, sunbaking mouth wide open on the muddy bank, the decision to climb up to the top pool seemed the prudent one ..... somewhat small, but with a foaming fresh cascade pouring down into it, it offered both spa and swim.

The upper pool at Ruby Falls

To complete the pleasant escapade, on returning to the dinghies, the crew lashed them together and brought out the beers and champagne to enjoy floating on the still waters beneath the rugged red sandstone walls of the gorge ... shades of Ireneabyss.

We zoomed back to the boat as the sun set over the mangroves lining the creek edge - our second full day was over, apart from yet another superb meal on the deck of Diversity III.

A bit after 5.30 am, we heard the engines start up and soon Diversity III was pushing out of Red Cone Creek and back across Doubtful Bay, this time heading north to follow an inland passage - mainland to the east and a string of long low island to the west. Some were rocky and arid, others capped with eucalypts and fringed by mangroves.

Nearing Tucker Creek in Doubtful Bay

At the end of this passage, we cruised into the broad expanse of Tucker Creek and dropped anchor - it was time to do some fishing near the rocky ledges and mangroves lining the creek and its inlets. The fair Nello and I (complete amateurs at the fishing game) joined Brian and our captain, Kane, in one of the dinghies and the three fast dinghies sped off in different directions to try and catch a dinner or two. What we caught, we would eat on the trip.

To be honest, I wasn't looking forward to the fishing, but ended up enjoying our time in Tucker Creek. The fair Nello caught her first ever fish and our boat ended up catching three big mangrove jacks and one golden snapper, all excellent eating fish. Several others were caught and released ... either too small or not fit for the table. Our crew are fussy fisherman. Combined with the catch from the other boats, we had the makings of a very good meal or two which pleased our chef.

Fishing is not so bad after all

It was now time to head on and out into the open sea to once again follow the Kimberley Coast northwards, with its rocky shore and occasional sandy beach, while feasting on a lunch of wild-caught barramundi. In the early afternoon, we rounded Battery Point, a prominent red-rock headland, to enter Deception Bay and once again drop anchor. This time, it was to undertake a bit of exploration in the dinghies before having a swim.

Cruising up the coast on a Kimberley afternoon

The wind had picked up a bit and the water in the bay had become somewhat lumpy, which led to a bouncy ride as we zoomed across it in the dinghies to enter the calmer waters of Butterfly Creek. Butterfly Creek meanders its way through a superb red sandstone gorge, sheer walls rising 60-80m above the water. This magnificent spectacle greeted us as we left the mangrove flats to enter the gorge an follow it around into the coastal hinterland.

After this exploration, the plan had been to have a swim in a freshwater pool up one of the side streams, but the tide was not high enough to reach it. Instead, our crew whizzed back out into the bay and into a smaller inlet, backed by a steep and course-grained sandy beach. One of our party named it Crocbait Beach ... still, after a quick reconnoitre, it was good enough for a quick soak in the warm Indian Ocean waters.

Another bum-jarring zip across the wind waves of Deception Bay brought us back to the boat. It was time to move on again - cruising north as the sun set golden over the ocean to enter the wide channel between Augustus Island and the mainland. Darkness quickly fell and the lights of Paspaley Pearl Farm twinkled on the shoreline as we passed Kuri Bay.

Finally, we reached the vicinity of tiny Sheep Island and dropped anchor for the night. Another day on the Kimberley Coast was over and tonight we feasted on a slow-cooked beef brisket, followed by mango and mint sorbet. I suspect that I will finish this trip heavier than when I started.

The reason for our anchorage site became clear next morning, when we hopped into the dinghies for a quick zoom to and landing on Sheep Island, where Gronk (our fount of all knowledge of the Kimberleys) told us about the failed Camden Harbour Settlement venture in 1864. Three shiploads of people and 5000 sheep arrived here to establish a British base in the north, only to find that basalt rock was not a good medium for growing things and water was a rarity. Within months, all the sheep and many of the people had died before the venture was abandoned. The only place to bury the dead was in the deep shellgrit beach on Sheep Island, so called because the last of the sheep were abandoned here to perish as well. Gronk told us this story under the shade of a giant boab that would have born witness to this folly.

From Sheep Island, Diversity III continued northwards up the coast between Augustus Island and the mainland. A brisk easterly wind had sprung up and, for the first time, white caps appeared on the water and our vessel picked up a slight rock and roll.

Just before reaching Brunswick Bay, we pulled into the lee of long west-facing white sand beach for our regulation morning swim. The only creatures before us had been a turtle and a dingo ... turtle tracks heading up from the sea to lay eggs in the sand and then returning .... dingo tracks wandering along the beach to reach the turtle's path, then following it up the beach to where a hole in the sand and the broken shells of turtle eggs witnessed to the outcome of this encounter. Such is nature in the wild.

After a pleasant swim, we continued our progress on Diversity III, turning east to pass through the narrow entrance into much-indented St George Basin. Here we passed Uwins Island and turned into a wide side channel of the basin to drop anchor. Welcome to Rothsay Water and our next fishing expedition - this time with lures in the hope of catching barramundi.

The sun was setting as the last fishing expedition returned and we pulled anchor for one last nocturnal shift in position, cruising slowly up through the narrow and eddying entrance channel to St George Basin. It was fellow passenger, Marg's, birthday and we celebrated with a melt-in-the mouth steak and freshly made kahlua creme birthday cake, as the warm easterly wind wafted across the dark waters of the basin. Another superb day on the Kimberley Coast was over.

We were woken by the sound of the engines just before 6am, signalling the imminent departure of Divesity III. It was time to cruise up the long and narrow inlet of the Prince Regent River deep into the Kimberley hinterland. This region is criss-crossed by fault lines and the sea has created a long inlet in this deep east-west fault. It provided us with a lesson in the importance of tides in the timing of our travels, as Kane needed a certain depth of water to travel up the waterway, as well as timing the return journey to leave before the tide fell too much.

Cruise ships heading up the Prince Regent River

It was a pleasant trip up the river, past the red-rock cliffs, mangrove flats and islets and a couple of hours later we pulled into a small basin on its south bank. We had arrived at one of the gems of the Kimberley - the King Cascades - silvery threads of water tumbling 50 m down the rock face and into the river.

Our captain, Kane, nudged Diversity III up to the base of the falls and all who wanted could stand out the front of the boat for a quick shower under the cascading torrent - exhilerating.

View from the top of the cascades

Once we pulled back from the falls, it was time to take to the dinghies to cross over to the start of a rocky track that climbed steeply up beside the waterfall, up a rain-forest gully, back into the drier spinifex and a bit beyond its outflow to reach a large, deep and clear freshwater pool, backed by several tiers of smaller cascades. It was a breathtaking setting and it was time for a swim.

Lush vegetation around the waterhole above the King Cascades

With the spectacular waterfall, deep waterhole for swimming and smaller cascades for a spa, we voted this the best part of the trip so far. The only slight downside, was that for the first time, we felt a bit touristy, as other vessels had also appeared at the falls - the luxury "True North", with its on-board helicopter and the "Reef Prince". Luckily, we crossed paths with their passengers while walking to and from the pool and had it to ourselves for the time we were there.

Then it was time for a long cruise, back up the Prince Regent River, back across St George Basin, overlooked by the prominent peaks of Mts Waterloo and Trafalgar, back out through the narrow Whirlpool Channel with its eddies and currents from the strong tidal flow. In fact, we were following the tide out and had the easterly wind at our backs, making for a pleasant return journey.

Reaching the open sea, we turned north-east to follow the shoreline to a flattish sandy bay. It was time to stop and go ashore for a quick history lesson under an enormous 600 year-old boab tree. This was Careening Bay and, in 1820, the coastal explorer Phillip Parker-King pulled in here to undertake repairs to his ship, the "Mermaid", whose name and year were carved into the boab tree and remain visible today.

The sun slowly set over the Coronation Islands as we left Careening Bay and by the time we began to cross the open sea at the entrance to Prince Frederick Harbour, where the strong easterly airflow generated a bit of a roll to accompany our delicious dinner of barramundi. It tasted even better, knowing that members of our expedition had caught it.

By 8.30pm, we dropped anchor at the entrance to Rainforest Ravine, sheltered from the easterly wind to ensure a calm night's sleep dreaming of yet more adventures on the Kimberley Coast tomorrow.

There was movement at the station at 5.30am - some of the passengers were going to try a little bit of fishing before breakfast, while others, including the fair Nello and myself slept in. It was a wise move on our parts as the total catch was zero. After breakfast, things got better, as we boarded the dinghies for a ride up the narrow inlet and into the sandstone-walled creek of Rainforest Ravine.

The track led us to a beautiful waterhole, set in the rainforest below two tiers of a waterfall .... time for another cooling swim and shower beneath the falls, before returning to the boat and heading on.

Rainforest Ravine waterhole

Diversity III retraced its path out of Prince Frederick Harbour to turn north and head into Scott Strait, between Bigge Island and the mainland. Part way along, we entered the narrow passage leading into Hidden Creek, its shore lined with curiously shaped and balanced sandstone rocks, sitting atop a basalt base. It was also the designated spot for the afternoon fishing expedition, along the rocks and mudflats of the estuary in search of the prized barramundi.

Our dinghy did not manage to bring back a good eating fish, though we caught and released several catches, including a reef shark and a crocodile that had been watching us fish for quite a while (and spat out the lure after taking a bite).

In one of the other dinghies, Claudia caught a big barramundi and others added a few mangrove jacks to the catch .... dinner for another night was guaranteed.

We finished fishing on sunset and, once all dinghies had returned, pulled anchor for a long night-time sail, back into Scott Strait and a strong easterly wind - dinner time on the topdeck was a warm and rocking one. Three hours later, we pulled into the shelter of Palm Island, having rounded the point and entered the more protected waters of Mudge Bay ... promising a calmer night in which to contemplate the cultural highlight of our trip - a visit to some ancient aboriginal artwork sites.

Looking about, there were no bobbing lights nearby ... the boats that had been our company for the last couple of nights had headed elsewhere and we were alone on the Kimberley Coast.